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I wouldn't recommend boring your sleeves too thin, especially if you intend to build much boost. They will egg-shape in short order. I would say that you should try to maintain at least .080" wall thickness, preferrably .100-.120". You should not bore your cylinders until you coat the pistons. That way, you'll know for sure that you have the right clearance. At 12:21 AM 11/9/99 -0800, Abraham Mara wrote: >weisco definatly sells a 1428 kit for the KZ-1000s, I'd have one were I not >so broke. :-) I AM ordering pistons this week, from them... 73 mm, the >last size on the stock sleeves. Are the chrome pins the stock ones they >give you in their kits? Does anyone know what those cyclender and piston >coatings cost to get done? How thick are the coatings (i.e. do I need to >bore the cylender any bigger to fit it?) Thanks in advance > -Abe. > >-----Original Message----- >Hi Steve, > >For a street ridden 2 valver on pump gas I would go no higher than 8:1. >Those >Kaws will give you fits with detonation, especially if you want to run any >appreciable boost. See if you can come up with a 1428 kit to make up for >the >reduced compression. I know the Wiseco catalog only lists up to 1260, but >they >do exist. I like the MTC pistons and their standard thickness hard chrome >pins >(even the small 17mm versions for the older Kaws) work well until you really >turn the heat up (like 300 Hp). The new Wiseco pieces are very good, >though. >They solved their problem of wrist pin galling and the pistons have gotten >much >better. Use the heavy wall hard chrome pins from Wiseco if you go that way. > >Make sure you take the squish out of the motor. Run a thick base gasket to >put >the piston squish band height at least 0.050" below the cylinder top >surface. >You might be able to run the 10.25:1 pistons and use a very thick base >gasket to >both reduce the compression and take out the squish. > >One option is to go with two plugs per cylinder to reduce the flame travel >path. >You can then retard the timing a bunch without losing anything. The >drawback is >that it tends to weaken the head, and you have four coils and eight plugs & >wires to deal with. It makes a nasty sound when the head splits open down >the >center.....trust me. > >The oversized valves will help but you'll need porting to go with them. >Your >'83 will make a nice cylinder head. I have a good source if you are >interested. > > Your stock cams will work well. Several six second funnybikes use those >exact >cams. > >Run a big oil cooler, or else run two smaller ones if they fit better. >Don't >block the airflow to the head and cylinder with the cooler. I took 40 >degrees >out of the running oil temp. on my FJ with the addition of a second cooler, >and >gained oil pressure in the process. I mounted it down on the chin fairing, >right in front of the water injection tank. You'll need one of those on >your >bike for sure as well. > >It sounds like others have had good experiences with those thermal barrier >coatings. I've never tried them myself. > >Good luck. >Bob > > > > > >"Steve Leonard" <sleonard@buffnet.net> on 11/05/99 02:20:18 PM > >To: turbobike@natvideo.com >cc: (bcc: Bob Shammas/EQA/Nsk-Corp) >Fax to: >Subject: [turbobike] Compression Ratio > > > > >I am building a 1983 GPZ1100, with a MoTeC M4 engine management system and a >IHI-RHB5 turbocharger..... > >Since this a 2-valve motor and I want it to be some what streetable >(preferabably pump gas), what compression do you recemmend, (1260cc), to >reduce >detonation I can retard the timing as boost increases with the MoTec >software. > Also will any great benefit be obtained with 1mm over-size stainless intake >and >exhaust valves? > Is there any advantage to having the combustion chamber and pistons >"coated" >with the thermal barrier compounds that are available?( I live about 10miles >from a place that does it) > >regards >Steve > > > bgoodwin@iquest.net FZR1000 turbo EFI (aka The Money Pit)