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RE: [turbobike] Compression Ratio

Bryan (bgoodwin@iquest.net)
Tue, 09 Nov 1999 14:31:58 -0500

I wouldn't recommend boring your sleeves too thin, especially if you intend
to build much boost. They will egg-shape in short order. I would say that
you should try to maintain at least .080" wall thickness, preferrably

You should not bore your cylinders until you coat the pistons. That way,
you'll know for sure that you have the right clearance.

At 12:21 AM 11/9/99 -0800, Abraham Mara wrote:
>weisco definatly sells a 1428 kit for the KZ-1000s, I'd have one were I not
>so broke.  :-)  I AM ordering pistons this week, from them...  73 mm, the
>last size on the stock sleeves.  Are the chrome pins the stock ones they
>give you in their kits?  Does anyone know what those cyclender and piston
>coatings cost to get done?  How thick are the coatings (i.e. do I need to
>bore the cylender any bigger to fit it?)  Thanks in advance
>		-Abe.
>-----Original Message-----
>Hi Steve,
>For a street ridden 2 valver on pump gas I would go no higher than 8:1.
>Kaws will give you fits with detonation, especially if you want to run any
>appreciable boost.  See if you can come up with a 1428 kit to make up for
>reduced compression.  I know the Wiseco catalog only lists up to 1260, but
>do exist.  I like the MTC pistons and their standard thickness hard chrome
>(even the small 17mm versions for the older Kaws) work well until you really
>turn the heat up (like 300 Hp).  The new Wiseco pieces are very good,
>They solved their problem of wrist pin galling and the pistons have gotten
>better.  Use the heavy wall hard chrome pins from Wiseco if you go that way.
>Make sure you take the squish out of the motor.  Run a thick base gasket to
>the piston squish band height at least 0.050" below the cylinder top
>You might be able to run the 10.25:1 pistons and use a very thick base
>gasket to
>both reduce the compression and take out the squish.
>One option is to go with two plugs per cylinder to reduce the flame travel
>You can then retard the timing a bunch without losing anything.  The
>drawback is
>that it tends to weaken the head, and you have four coils and eight plugs &
>wires to deal with.  It makes a nasty sound when the head splits open down
>center.....trust me.
>The oversized valves will help but you'll need porting to go with them.
>'83 will make a nice cylinder head.  I have a good source if you are
> Your stock cams will work well.  Several six second funnybikes use those
>Run a big oil cooler, or else run two smaller ones if they fit better.
>block the airflow to the head and cylinder with the cooler.  I took 40
>out of the running oil temp. on my FJ with the addition of a second cooler,
>gained oil pressure in the process.  I mounted it down on the chin fairing,
>right in front of the water injection tank.  You'll need one of those on
>bike for sure as well.
>It sounds like others have had good experiences with those thermal barrier
>coatings.  I've never tried them myself.
>Good luck.
>"Steve Leonard" <sleonard@buffnet.net> on 11/05/99 02:20:18 PM
>To:   turbobike@natvideo.com
>cc:    (bcc: Bob Shammas/EQA/Nsk-Corp)
>Fax to:
>Subject:  [turbobike] Compression Ratio
>I am building a 1983 GPZ1100, with a MoTeC M4 engine management system and a
>IHI-RHB5 turbocharger.....
>Since this a 2-valve motor and I want it to be some what streetable
>(preferabably pump gas), what compression do you recemmend, (1260cc), to
>detonation I can retard the timing as boost increases with the MoTec
> Also will any great benefit be obtained with 1mm over-size stainless intake
>exhaust valves?
> Is there any advantage to having the combustion chamber and pistons
>with the thermal barrier compounds that are available?( I live about 10miles
>from a place that does it)
FZR1000 turbo EFI
(aka The Money Pit)