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RE: [turbobike] Compression Ratio

Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:47:52 -0500

You are correct on the KZ1000, but they only offer up to 1260 on the GPZ.  They
give you the hard chrome pins with the kits now, but they may be the thin wall
pins depending on which kit you get.  They offer a heavy wall turbo/nitrous pin
as well, and they're cheap compared to MTC.

The coating would only be on the top surface of the piston - the one exposed to
hot combustion gases.  I'm not sure what they cost.


"Abraham Mara" <umaraa00@umail.ucsb.edu> on 11/09/99 03:21:45 AM

Please respond to AbeFM@dis.member.org

To:   Bob Shammas/EQA/Nsk-Corp@Nsk-Corp, "Steve Leonard" <sleonard@buffnet.net>
cc:   turbobike@natvideo.com
Fax to:
Subject:  RE: [turbobike] Compression Ratio

weisco definatly sells a 1428 kit for the KZ-1000s, I'd have one were I not
so broke.  :-)  I AM ordering pistons this week, from them...  73 mm, the
last size on the stock sleeves.  Are the chrome pins the stock ones they
give you in their kits?  Does anyone know what those cyclender and piston
coatings cost to get done?  How thick are the coatings (i.e. do I need to
bore the cylender any bigger to fit it?)  Thanks in advance

-----Original Message-----
Hi Steve,

For a street ridden 2 valver on pump gas I would go no higher than 8:1.
Kaws will give you fits with detonation, especially if you want to run any
appreciable boost.  See if you can come up with a 1428 kit to make up for
reduced compression.  I know the Wiseco catalog only lists up to 1260, but
do exist.  I like the MTC pistons and their standard thickness hard chrome
(even the small 17mm versions for the older Kaws) work well until you really
turn the heat up (like 300 Hp).  The new Wiseco pieces are very good,
They solved their problem of wrist pin galling and the pistons have gotten
better.  Use the heavy wall hard chrome pins from Wiseco if you go that way.

Make sure you take the squish out of the motor.  Run a thick base gasket to
the piston squish band height at least 0.050" below the cylinder top
You might be able to run the 10.25:1 pistons and use a very thick base
gasket to
both reduce the compression and take out the squish.

One option is to go with two plugs per cylinder to reduce the flame travel
You can then retard the timing a bunch without losing anything.  The
drawback is
that it tends to weaken the head, and you have four coils and eight plugs &
wires to deal with.  It makes a nasty sound when the head splits open down
center.....trust me.

The oversized valves will help but you'll need porting to go with them.
'83 will make a nice cylinder head.  I have a good source if you are

 Your stock cams will work well.  Several six second funnybikes use those

Run a big oil cooler, or else run two smaller ones if they fit better.
block the airflow to the head and cylinder with the cooler.  I took 40
out of the running oil temp. on my FJ with the addition of a second cooler,
gained oil pressure in the process.  I mounted it down on the chin fairing,
right in front of the water injection tank.  You'll need one of those on
bike for sure as well.

It sounds like others have had good experiences with those thermal barrier
coatings.  I've never tried them myself.

Good luck.

"Steve Leonard" <sleonard@buffnet.net> on 11/05/99 02:20:18 PM

To:   turbobike@natvideo.com
cc:    (bcc: Bob Shammas/EQA/Nsk-Corp)
Fax to:
Subject:  [turbobike] Compression Ratio

I am building a 1983 GPZ1100, with a MoTeC M4 engine management system and a
IHI-RHB5 turbocharger.....

Since this a 2-valve motor and I want it to be some what streetable
(preferabably pump gas), what compression do you recemmend, (1260cc), to
detonation I can retard the timing as boost increases with the MoTec
 Also will any great benefit be obtained with 1mm over-size stainless intake
exhaust valves?
 Is there any advantage to having the combustion chamber and pistons
with the thermal barrier compounds that are available?( I live about 10miles
from a place that does it)